Les Oreilles et la Queue


A house specializing in high quality beef, Heiress to the finest French gastronomic savoir-faire.
Beef from the best French and worldwide breeds, carefully selected by our master butchers, and sublimated through dry-aging.
The Wine list combines the biggest names with smaller, but nevertheless enthusiastic producers.

The Restaurant

Gathering for the first time, in the same place, carefully selected beef cuts from the entire planet, a dedicated wine selection, and Paris’ nicest serving staff, the two restaurants offer a 100% French alternative to the anglo-saxon steakhouses.
Boris Leclercq, a fine food and cuisine enthusiast, reinvents in April 2016 his renowned carnivorous bistrot on Faubourg Saint-Honoré street to make it the first «Maison de Viande [steakhouse] à la Française». For the first time, this address puts forward a dry-aged prime meat collection of all origins. Rubia Gallega, Scottish Angus, Irish Hereford or Normand and Aubrac… Quality being the only reference, Boris Leclercq lets his guests decide. Without «racism» or dogma.
This open card meat selection, escorted by the best of French culinary art, offers a unique tasting experience. Boris Leclercq, an owner of sturdy character, inspires his team with his love for good food and sharing.

What is maturation?

Maturation is the process of keeping a piece of beef waiting in controlled temperature, humidity and ventilation conditions. This is not a new phenomenon, since the butchers, with the means at their disposal, have always practiced it, at least for about ten days, so that the meat can be consumed (yes!). And their connoisseur customers already knew how to be put aside, and appreciate, a well stale meat as it should be!
Today, the technology and conditions of breeding, slaughter and transport make it possible to extend the staling in a maturation of several weeks, even several months... to the delight of the taste buds.

For what result?

First of all, a loss of water. This loss is very significant (up to 60% of the weight), and depends on the duration. The direct consequence is the concentration of the taste. The meat has a bouquet with more pronounced flavours. Then notes of hazelnuts, mushrooms, with a lot of umami, the famous fifth dimension of taste.
Second, a destruction of the collagen that envelops the muscles. The more muscular a part is, the more collagen there is, and the harder the meat. Its destruction is usually obtained by heat (i.e. cooking). With maturation, we obtain an identical result... without firing. The meat obtained has an unparalleled tenderness.

The addresses

Saint-Honoré
129, rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré - Paris VIII

Tour Eiffel
81, avenue Bosquet - Paris VII




Comments